Apparently, people who know me in real life could hear the melancholy in that last post… so here’s the more uptempo update. Thanks to my climbing partner’s extrememobile, I got into the climbing gym last night for one of my best climbing nights in a long time.
I warmed up with a traverse, then got right on lead. I figured I’d work my way up to the 10c I’ve been eyeing as a lead project, starting with a good new 5.9. Did the 5.9, did a 10a, did a 10b, then there weren’t any 10c’s other than my project (which is really freaking hard) so I looked around and spotted a 10d I figured I could do since it plays to my strengths. It was the perfect amount of difficulty… not scary, but not a gimme, either… and I felt so happy after finishing a 10d on lead (since it doesn’t happen often). I still couldn’t bring myself to get on that big, scary, hard, pumpy, overhung 10c, though — until Erin suggested I mock lead it. BRILLIANT!!! I made it to just below the crux, only about two moves lower than I usually blow it on top rope. Getting to the top was a battle… it’s super pumpy, slopey, and pinchy at the top and the clips are hard, but I did manage to make it up, two ropes and all. I’m super stoked, even though it was a mock lead, because now I know what I’m in for at each clip… my belayer left out some slack so I got the sensation of falling (a little, not like a lead fall)… and I think now I’m ready to get on it and work it with falls the next time I feel like leading. YAY!
We got a surprising amount of new snow last night, so it’s a work-at-home day again today. Fingers are crossed for the possibility of a gym field trip this Friday or weekend… it’s not Red Rock, but it’s better than nothing!
Sara Lobkovich Newsletter
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