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Dreaming of Dierdre and Monkeys

Sara Lingafelter
Sara Lingafelter
2 min read

Shawn “Beautiful Girls” Campbell emailed earlier this week with a very simple message… the Smith Rock weather report. Chris and I are both exhausted… we’ve been burning the candle at both ends with work and other commitments, and have not made it into the climbing gym regularly, so usually we’d sigh longingly and pass so that we could stay home and get caught up on some need-to-do’s over the long weekend. Not this time. Something about the timing of this unusually sunny weekend at Smith in February told Chris and I both that we needed to reclaim a little part of our lives and blow off our commitments and play outside this weekend. It will be a quick trip… just two days of climbing and a whole lot of driving… but we’ve got good friends to share both with, and it will be nice to go somewhere familiar and happy and just have some fun, even if it’s chilly.

In the very limited time we have had to pack and plan for the trip, it got me thinking about my goals for the year. My primary goal is to not get too caught up with the day job, and make time to keep climbing and playing outside. But aside from that, I do have some more specific goals. In thinking about this Smith trip, a goal for this year dawned on me… I’d like to do one of the moderates on Monkey Face. The routes are physically achievable, and it’s just the mental challenge of the exposure and the unknown. It won’t be this trip… that’s more of a later in the season goal, but that’s one of the things I’d like to do this year.

Another general goal is to spend more time at Squamish… for a variety of reasons we didn’t make it up at all last year, and this year we’re going to reverse that trend. Chris’s goal is to do Dierdre, a 6-pitch 5.8 on the South Apron at the Chief. That too is achievable, I think, this year.

I’m comfortable leading in that range on sport routes, but am still working on confidence on gear, so those are two good goals for this year. I don’t know that we’ll make progress on them this weekend since I think our plan is to go fast and light and leave the rack at home this trip, but we’ll see. I may sneak the rack bag into the car just in case we get an opportunity to do some trad leading.

Now, time for the day job. Have a fun, safe weekend, all!


Sara Lingafelter

Sara (Grace) Lingafelter takes steps forward and backward toward a right-sized life on a daily basis.