I’ve been a bit tired this week, so haven’t been pulling hard, but did get into the gym on Monday for a short (tired) bouldering session, plus another lap on my new favorite 10d on toprope. I did it onsight last weekend, then did it clean again on Monday, so now I have to lead it. Grrrrrrr. I know it’s good for me… it’s a good project… it will be good for me to get into a lead project again… but oh, how I need to adjust my thinking for leading harder routes. I was watching Dosage V last night and one of the climbers walked up to a boulder and during his “pre-climb ritual” said “I can DO this… I can DO this…” or something positive to that effect. While I no longer walk up to routes and think, “There’s no way in hell I’m going to be able to do this…” I do need to work on getting to a place where I leave the ground knowing I can do whatever it is in front of me.
I was also struck watching Chris Sharma and others skip bolt after bolt on the hard sport routes they were doing in Spain… all I could think was, to skip a bolt, you have to be confident that you can get to the next one to clip safely (or, confident enough to basically solo for an indefinite length of time). I am still… all this time later… working on getting a place where I think in a positive, healthy way about falling… where I push myself to the point of falling and them am surprised by the fact of the fall, instead of thinking the whole way up the route about the point where I’m going to have to back off to avoid falling.
Yes, I’m a head case. Yes, you’ve heard this before. No, I haven’t really yet gotten past it. Yes, I’m still reading a lot, and trying to learn from other climbers. Watching videos is helping. It lets me see the kind of climber I’d like to be… and think about what’s different between me now, and the me I’d like to be as a climber. Most of all, I just love watching people take such big whippers on gear they’ve placed blindly, or quickly, or desperately… and seeing the gear hold. I’m looking forward to the spring, and to getting out and back on traditional gear, to rebuild my confidence that took a beating during my Tuolumne trip.
Anyway… not much else to report. I’m hoping, despite the snow, to get into the climbing gym today… don’t know how realistic that is given that they haven’t even plowed my road yet, but a girl can hope…
Sara Lobkovich Newsletter
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